New Zealand Travel Guide: South Island Edition
Campervan through South Island with EPIC Campers
Tips & Recommendations after a 6 Week Solo Road Trip
around South Island, New Zealand
Inside a dreamscape - trust me when I say this country is even better in person. One worth giving as much time as possible to explore.
Here you can summit mountains, jump in glacial lakes, and admire cascading waterfalls — an outdoor lover’s dream come true.
I was incredibly fortunate to spend 3 months in New Zealand, roadtripping South Island for 2 months. The beauty is simply breathtaking (see for yourself in my New Zealand Photo Series) and will leave you at a loss for words.
I’ve created this South Island guide based off my experiences. It is not comprehensive of every activity, hike or campsite, but I highlight my personal favorites and recommendations for an unforgettable trip!
Should you have any questions, feel free to reach out to me.
My Route
I completed a 6-week solo roadtrip around South Island. This allowed me to explore the island more closely and go to places I had missed during my 2-week campervan exploration.
I began in Christchurch. Here I packed all my things into Sally - my 15+ year-old Subaru graciously rented to me by the kindest locals — and headed North. The plan was to make a big circle around the island, stopping where felt right and moving on when ready.
This was my route:
Christchurch - Kaikoura - Marlborough Sounds - Picton - Abel Tasman National Park - Golden Bay - Franz Josef / Fox Glacier - Wanaka - Queenstown - Glenorchy - Fiordland National Park - Catlins - Dunedin - Christchurch
My learnings, recommendations and takeaways
Transportation
This might be the single biggest decision as to what type of trip you will have. In my opinion, the best way to experience NZ is with your own transportation. Although there are tour buses and some public transport, the real magic of New Zealand is off the main roads. Having your own vehicle allows you the freedom to go down scenic roadways, or be at the trailhead before anyone else. Otherwise, you’re at the mercy of others.
If you have a vehicle you can sleep in, there is nothing more awe-striking than waking up in the morning, opening your door for some fresh air and being rewarded with a rosy red and orange sorbet sunrise.
Safe Driving in New Zealand
Please note, Kiwis drive on the left side of the road and roads can be extremely narrow and windy, especially on South Island. If you are not a confident driver, then I recommend sticking to a tour or public transport for both your and others’ safety, as some roads can be quite scary. I have seen one too many accidents, almost always involving a tourist.
If you decide to rent a vehicle, keep in mind that Kiwis are used to these roads and the curves are second nature. They will often drive faster than you may be comfortable with. Because most roads are single lane, if you aren’t going the speed limit, you might notice a line of cars behind you. To avoid conflict or stress, it is best to click on your turn signal, safely pull over, and let others pass. This is not a place to let ego get the best of us. You may even get a ‘thank you’ via flashing hazards.
Campervan rentals
My number one recommendation is to rent a campervan. It is worth the cost. No other country that I’ve been to has been so camper-van friendly. You will see them EVERYWHERE, therefore there is exceptional infrastructure to support them with campervan parking lots in most cities, tons of campsites across the country, and free (and clean!) public bathrooms everywhere.
If you are looking for a small, local company with exceptional customer service, a company I can personally vouch for is EPIC Campers. They may cost a bit more, but with that comes peace of mind that your limited time (and precious vacation) on the island will be carefree and easy. This team has thought of everything. Their vans are brilliantly designed, making the experience quite comfortable, even in the smaller models.
They have many fewer vans than the large companies, but we found this to make ours feel special. Seeing another EPIC camper included a friendly ‘beep’ and smile.
I was a bit nervous before heading out in the van, and the team at EPIC Campers spent 2 hours walking me through the entire vehicle and answered all my questions. I left feeling confident and prepared.
The Duo (2 person camper)
A few other companies I’ve heard good things about are: Indie Campers and Britz. I’d avoid Juicy (big corporate company and to be honest, the color of the vans are a bit off-putting… lime green??).
PRO TIP: Download the Gaspy app which shows a price comparison of gas near you so you can find the best price.
Accommodation / Camping
Cascade Creek (DOC) campsite, Fiordland National Park
As I mentioned, the true magic of New Zealand lies in its nature and the best way to experience it is through full immersion. My recommendation is to travel via campervan (or tent-camping) and stay at campgrounds along your route. There are hundreds of campsites ranging from Holiday parks (these have laundry, kitchens, hot showers, and sometimes pools) to national park campsites (cold or no showers, port-o-potties, no electricity). There is something for every type of traveler.
Freedom camping
Some campers are certified ‘self-contained’. This means they have a toilet and running water built in. Often, the toilet on these vehicles are not used, but it is a way to get the certification to be able to stay at freedom campsites. If your van is not certified self-contained, you can be fined for staying at these sites if caught. Vehicles will have self-contained stickers on them with an expiration date. Your camper rental company will let you know if your rental is self contained.
These campsites tend to be some of the most beautiful as they are right next to lakes, oceans, and overall more rustic. 99% of the time these sites have a bathroom so you don’t have to use the one in the van. We did not use ours once as there were bathrooms everywhere we went.
PRO TIP: Download the CamperMate app which is an incredible resource for finding campsites, dump stations, bathrooms, and camper-van friendly
Department of Conservation (DOC) Campsites / Pass
A great value is the Department of Conservation Campsite Pass. This gives you access to all Department of Conservation campsites across the country, including campsites in the national parks. Some have very few amenities and while others have kitchens, running water, etc. They are an exceptional value if you are okay staying at the less glitzy campsites. You can read about them on the DOC website.
I recommend booking in advance, as some of these sites are very popular, especially between Dec-Feb when families are on holiday and in the Queenstown/Wanaka/Fiordland areas.
These campsites tend to be $10-20/pp, so do the math for the amount of days you will be traveling to determine if this is the most cost-effective option for you. Day access to National Parks are free.
This website also gives exceptional information about Great walks and popular hiking trails as well. Note that if you wish to do a Great Walk (Routeburn Trail, Milford Track, etc.) you will need to book campsites or huts well in advance. Often these sell out very quickly. You cannot stay in a hut without a reservation. Plan ahead!
Campsites
I stayed in many different campsites during my time in South Island, ranging from remote stays where I was the only person, to busy Holiday Parks with swimming pools.
Here are my favorites, broken down by region:
LAKE TEKAPO / MT. COOK NATIONAL PARK
Lake Pukaki Overnight Campervan Parking - first-come, first serve free freedom campsite. Get here early to secure a spot and get absolutely incredible views of Mt. Cook (If the weather behaves) and some of the best star-gazing (dark-site).
Stay here instead of Lake Tekapo to give you easy access to Mt. Cook National Park. It can get chilly, so pack accordingly!
White Horse Hill Campground (DOC) - A very, very popular campsite in Mt. Cook National Park, book well in advance as it is the only campsite in the park. Gives great access to Hooker Valley Trail (a must for the park).
Staying overnight allows you to beat the tour buses and crowds as the day goes on. However, it downpoured when we were here, so try to stay positive and roll with the punches. This region is know for quick changes of weather.
QUEENSTOWN / OTAGO
Moke Lake Campsite (DOC) - a peaceful site on a beautiful lake with NO CELL SERVICE or WIFI. Campsites are between the mountains facing a beautiful lake that you can swim in. Plenty of space for everyone, this is a lovely place to go off the map for a few days.
Bring your own toilet paper and soap because the bathrooms tended to run out.
Mossburn Country Park - a lovely family-run country stay to break up the drive between Milford Sound and Queenstown. Tons of space to spread out with grassy patches. Free wifi, hot showers, kitchen and lounge spaces. The value is unmatched. Oh and there are alpacas!
WANAKA
Hampshire Holiday Parks - Glendhu Bay - Jump into glacial water every morning! This site is away from the busier parts of Wanaka but still a close enough drive for dinner or shopping. It’s also a 5 min drive to Roy’s Peak (great for those interested in the sunrise hike!)
If driving to Mt. Aspiring National Park, you will drive past this campsite. Good stay for early morning hikes (Rob Roy Glacier, Mt. Aspiring Hut, Liverpool Hut).
The Camp - Lake Hawea Holiday Park - More local feel, 10-15 minutes outside of Wanaka on a gorgeous lake with mountain views. On-site sauna available for a fee.
FIORDLAND
Cascade Creek (DOC): Located in Fiordland National Park, book this spot in advance (service is spotty once you enter the park). No fuss campsite with gorgeous sunsets.
Staying here allows you to wake up early and drive to Milford Sound for a cruise. If you wake up early enough, you will be able to enjoy the drive (about 2 hours) with much fewer crowds.
NELSON / TASMAN
Tōtaranui Campground (DOC) - the largest campsite I saw in NZ, this spot draws a very local, family crowd. Sitting right on the top of Abel Tasman National Park, you can enjoy the beautiful beach or walk part of the Abel Tasman Coast Track (one of the Great Walks). You’ll likely see hikers completing the multi-day trek at the campsite, tired.
FRANZ JOSEF GLACIER
Orange Sheep Campervan Park - this place feels like you are in a rainforest. Fills up fast as there are not many options in this small West Coast town. Book early!
Pro tip: if you have a smaller vehicle, go to the back of the park. Very private and cozy spots back there. Free wifi reaches.
CATLINS
Purakauni Bay Campsite (DOC) - a peaceful ocean-side campsite with great views. This spot attracts surfers, so you will not be bored watching them from the campsite. It is pretty remote, so bring all that you need. Try to go with good weather, as there isn’t much else to do besides the beach.
Curio Bay Camping Ground - I didn’t stay here, but stopped by in the morning to take in the views. If you’re lucky, you can get a spot right on the cliffs and wake up to the most gorgeous view.
